Jul 052012
 

I don’t know how to begin– I don’t know how to describe my feelings clearly– I also don’t know how to end.  I will treat this dedication to the Castelli Romani like a toast at a wedding: awkward, but hopefully the meaning is understood in the end.

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The communes surrounding Rome are home to the most generous people in the entire world.  I have spent the past 4 weeks eating food so good I have no words to articulate the taste, having my haircut for free because I was told cutting a visitor’s hair was a pleasure, learning new Italian words from children, eating Cheetos with a fork and knife to make monolingual Italian speakers laugh, being taken to countless breathtaking and awe-inspiring panoramas, and feeling guilty for offending others by NOT staying in their homes.

I have cried like an asshole when separated from people that I only met two weeks before.  Yes, I know this often happens to people who are thrown together for a short amount of time, but I am also convinced that many of them will remain in my heart forever, and I know that I will do everything I can to see them again and again.

Grottaferrata: you have the most adorable children in the world.  They are rambunctious, but it’s because they have personality.  There are some artists in there, there are some future free-loving hippies.  There are some accountants as well, I am sure.  You also have some damn good Gelato.  I think it’s a bit of a hidden gem.  The jasmine flowers lining your streets made me dizzy with happiness every time I caught their aroma.

Frascati: ooooh Frascati.  The views, the wine, the parks with toys that would certainly be outlawed in the United States (and that really shouldn’t be played on under the influence of alcohol).  The old men playing classic Italian songs outside of Fraschetta’s without a desire for tips.  Every moment was unforgettable.  The 3 Euro water-bottles-filled-with-wine weren’t very tasty, but the 5 Euro glass bottles were better than good.

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Rocca di Papa: I didn’t spend much time visiting properly, but I did stare at you every night as I ate dinner and again from my balcony right before bed.  My ears pop like crazy when I reach high altitudes, but I don’t mind it, and even if I did, I would ignore it just for you.

Rocca di Papa

Marino: I hereby promise that I will come back next October for the wine festival.  Am I really talking about wine again? I want to drink wine out of a public fountain, thank you very much.  I hope you understand why I can’t come this year.  Thanks for the football game, it was great.

Ariccia:  I’m sorry I didn’t fall in love at first, but I wasn’t over the Grottaferrata thing yet.  The views are great, but the stupid nets on the bridge kept getting in the way of my photos.  I don’t know why anyone ever wanted to commit suicide while in such a beautiful place. Thank you for Porchetta, and for just existing in general.

Ariccia

Genzano di Roma: you have some really well-behaved kids who speak phenomenal English.  I hate to tell you that this means they will probably all leave when they are old enough to do so.  Nevertheless, I had fun watching the final game of the Euro Cup in your streets, and I will always treasure the orphaned Italian flag I found (someone must have been really mad that their country lost).

Lanuvio: There are some really embarrassing videos of me singing on stage during your music festival floating around. Thanks for putting up with that, and for cheering “brava!” and “encore!” despite how terrible myself and my friends sounded.  Over 93% of you were breathtakingly gorgeous. I want to rename you “Hottie Town Italia”, but I probably don’t have that authority.

I have been beaten into submission. I have learned to kiss both cheeks as a greeting rather than go in for a hug.  I know now that visiting Rome is not enough; you have truly missed out if you skip the Castelli.

May 302012
 

This weekend, I indulged in one of life’s simplest pleasures and most treasured secrets: the revered Bill’s Hot Dog.

Yes, I capitalized the ‘h’ and ‘d’ in ‘hot’ and ‘dog’. That is because Bill’s Hot Dog’s deserve this treatment.  These are proper nouns, people.  These are things, these aren’t normal hot dogs.  These dogs command respect.

There will be at the most four, at the fewest two women working assembly line style behind the counter to assemble your dog.  Some of them will have 80′s throwback bangs.  They will probably be wearing pastel colored T-Shirts and I can’t explain why.  They will work fast and with precision.  The line will be wrapped around the restaurant, maybe even out the door, but you will get your dog in due time.

There are no tables and chairs inside, that would take precious space away from the aforementioned snake-like line. Eat them outside on a bench, outside on the curb, on your boat, take them home.  There are three toppings: chili, mustard, and onions.  No more, no less.  No ketchup.  Get over yourself.  This is Bill’s.  You are going to like it, just order it all the way.  Don’t want onion breath? Fine.  Order it without onions– but don’t you DARE.  Don’t you DARE think of ordering it without chili.

Anatomy of a Bill's Hot Dog

Let me tell you something, folks, and there are a lot of people who might not admit this: that crazy, fire engine red-colored dog… it has no flavor.  Ok, perhaps… perhaps a little bit of flavor.  Not much, though.  The magic is in the chili, a secret recipe that many have attempted to copy, but few– I mean NONE– have succeeded at recreating.  The chili is the powerhouse; that’s where the flavor is.

Don’t stress if someone in line in front of you orders 10, 15, or maybe even 50 hot dogs.  People travel miles and miles to get their hands on a Bill’s Hot Dog.  I met visitors from Texas who had ordered 100 to take home, freeze, and enjoy for months/weeks, maybe days (I’m not judging).

Whenever I go to Little Original Washington (cute, these nicknames) without my Dad, he requests that I bring several home for him.  Not 100; he isn’t gluttonous, but often 5 or 6.  At $1.03 a pop, that isn’t too much to ask.

So if you ever stop by Washington, North Carolina: Population 9,744, be sure to pick up a Bill’s Hot Dog.  Washington is right off Highway 17, so if you have an East Coast truck driver uncle or cousin, ask them to bring you a few on their haul.  Hopefully that isn’t an inconvenient or awkward request.  Bill’s has been featured in several magazines and newspapers the country over, so this isn’t just me trying to convince you. The world is.

Photo credits: One, Two, Three, Four, Five

May 202012
 

A Southerner (or probably a flat-out East Coaster) moving to the Midwest is faced with many subtle cultural differences, but when said Southerner (or ECer) moves to a large city in the Midwest, the differences are not always as pronounced: grocery stores don’t sell pimento cheese, no biscuits sold at Hardee’s after 10AM, no one understands that “did you get up with (insert name)?” means on the phone, ya’ll is “cute”.  All things that could be considered minor oddities, many of which can be solved in your own kitchen or by laughing off the differences.

This weekend, I had the pleasure of visiting small town Wisconsin at its finest: Stoughton, Wisconsin, population 12,611, with native Stoughtoner and my co-worker and friend Lucas as my guide.

What makes Stoughton so special besides the fact that its downtown seems to be thriving? Not to spoil the answer to this rhetorical question that I intend to answer eventually, but really, despite there being a festival, nary a store window had a “for lease” sign.  In such a small town, every building was occupied with book stores, cafes, bars, restaurants, a movie theater, children’s stores, a cheese store– it was impressive!

Our reason for venturing to Stoughton was to check out its Syttende Mai festival.  Syttende Mai is the Norwegian Constitution Day, and Stoughton has something uncommon to most small towns I have visited in the colonially-muddled cities of the East Coast (from which I am proud to come, we have our own history, don’t get me wrong!): a strong Norwegian heritage in almost every single resident.

Velkommen til Stoughton! We all practically speak Norwegian. Really! Some do!

Check out that mural over their river! In my hometown, I think we are all British.  If we do stuff like that, we just put it in some old English script, or what we think is how the English colonists spelled things.  But then that’s even weird.  And some of us are a little German, French, or other heritage, but even my German ancestor fought in the Civil War. Been here a long time, we have.

The first thing we saw was the “Sonner Av Norge” house, which seemed to be something like  a Moose Lodge but for Norwegian-heritage Stoughtonites.

We continued to walk down the main street, where we stopped and ate a ton of delicious, deep-fried cheese curds. Notice that the word cheese curds is a different color; it is a link. Cheese curds are hard to explain, please read if you are curious!

With Lucas as our guide, we made our way to the middle school where the Norwegian dancers (this is a club you can join if you go to high school in Stoughton) were performing traditional dance.  It was really neat, but I couldn’t get a good picture. This is the only photo I stole from online, and I got it here.

At some point, we wandered into the “Nordic Nook”, a local store for Scandinavian gifts and apparel. This was not thrown up for the festival, this store is here year-round.  You can buy all the Uff Da stuff you ever wanted here. Uff Da means, roughly, “ahhh”, or “overwhelming!”.  It is of Norwegian origin and is used frequently by Wisconsinites of Norwegian heritage.

After watching the dancers for a bit, we made our way back down Main Street, where we again saw several women rushing by in traditional Norwegian outfits. I became determined to get my photo taken with one, but was at the same time terrified of asking.  As we neared Lucas’ car, I ducked into the Sonner av Norge house to see if I could find a nice lady who would be in a photo. To my surprise, the one nice lady led me to two more, and a man even, and they all started speaking to each other in NORWEGIAN, which turned this quaint heritage festival into a “WAIT– this is recent, you guys are from Norway!! You guys speak Norwegian!!” at which point I told them in my slow, terribly pronounced, 2nd semester Swedish that I spoke a bit of, well, Swedish.

Turns out that many of the elderly folk in Stoughton were born in Norway, and reared their children speaking Norwegian.  The older woman in the picture with me fits that bill.  The rest of them flew over from Norway the Saturday before to visit their now-American relatives and participate in the festival.  Who coulda known?

 

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